tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42006438350513959542024-03-13T23:08:55.412-07:00My Adventures in Woodworkingobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.comBlogger65125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-64694298309990828532014-04-20T05:53:00.003-07:002014-05-13T10:30:39.921-07:00Why some businesses fail while others thrive.<div class="Normal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">As is my usual Saturday habit, I ventured to one of the well-known machine and woodworking tool distributors for snoop and my customary, usual purchase. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;"> The first thing I noticed was that there was no one in the parking lot.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">I was the only vehicle.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">I thought that perhaps that branch was closed for some reason.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">I parked and looked through the window and the lights are on so I ventured to the door.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">There are double doors leading to the display area with an atrium to prevent heat loss during the winter months.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">Plastered all over the glass and doors were terms and conditions for sale and the return policy. They had been printed on a laser printer and stuck on the glass with scotch
tape leaving the impression for me at least that I had just entered some second-rate flea market.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;"> I glanced over my right shoulder and through the glass I could see the loan cashier playing a game on her I Pad while holding same under cover of the counter. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">I presume she wanted to hide the fact that she had no interest in participating with this operation but perhaps was merely punching the clock and waiting for quitting time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">No doubt a simple question like “Where’s the sandpaper?” would have baffled her at this time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">I opened the door and ventured in only to see the cashier continue playing with her I pad.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;"> She didn't even bother to look up. ( I was less than 4 feet from her.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;"> The store occupies roughly 5000 ft.² and is littered with machines and tools on display for sale.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">There was one other customer in the store and he was proceeding to leave as I entered.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;"> I worked my way down one aisle looking at this and that. Much of it had price tags and many did not.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;"> A small advert pasted on the wall half way down the display area announced a 3 day sale from April 9th to April 12th. It was April 20th today making the
pricing questionable to say the least.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;"> The manager, whom I have known for more than a year, was tinkering with one of his hobby creations and attempting to set it up on one of the wood lathes on display.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;">He looked up and acknowledged me but quickly went right back to playing with his toys.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial"; font-size: large;"> I gradually made my way back to the front door and left the building taking careful note that no one looked up or acknowledged the fact I was leaving.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;"> Next time I hear someone complaining that employers don't give entry-level staff a decent wage and I will reflect back on this situation and question why employees, while being
paid, don’t try to give anything back to the employer.</span>obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-80943802897913273242013-11-30T11:03:00.004-08:002013-12-22T14:53:15.707-08:00Making home made veneer hammers<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">My journey into Veneering.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">I started making a small jewelry box few weeks ago and part way through I began to want to dress it up a bit with some veneer material I’ve seen examples on YouTube that were stunning and intriguing so I set out to make one on the style I had seen.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">I’ve done some small pieces with veneer but this called for something a little more robust. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;"> I quickly realized that I would need for veneer press and at the very least, a veneer hammer.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">When I checked around for the tool I could only find the professional model which I felt was beyond my budget for this single project.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">As we all know that’s often the case with us amateur woodworkers.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">I had some brass stock in the garage and found a piece long enough to mail for the burnishing side of the hammer.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">Using my 4 inch belt Sander I was able to flatten the curve side of the brass rod and carefully grind a triangular burnishing edge on one side. The rest of the project involved turning a couple of handles in making a wood mount to hold the brass insert.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">I “freehanded” the cutting of the hammer heads and could have made them more symmetrical but for shop tool it’s good enough.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">The first picture shows the two hammers side by side.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">The second picture shows the hammers from the front view with the brass inserts in the drying position.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">This picture shows the basic shape of the brass inserts where they contact the veneer.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">This picture shows both hammers side by side. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">The larger one is 5 1/2 inches wide while the smaller one is 3 inches wide.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">I cut a wedge and glued it to the back of the hammer body to offset the handle from 90° to approximately 105°. This just makes it more comfortable to draw the hammer along the veneer.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">The corners of each brass insert are carefully rounded and smooth to be sure that they would not cut through the veneer during the squeegee process.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">Finally the last two pictures show the materials I used.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">1. Three-quarter inch maple stock.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">2. Inch and a quarter square mahogany.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">3. Inch and three-quarter by 5/16 by three-quarter brass stock.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: large;">4.Final picture shows the brass stock as it was ground to size using the belt sander.</span><br />
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I found this idea for making attractive wood trivets in the magazine called woodworkers Journal issue winter of 2013.<br />
The jig is fairly straight forward but you do have to read the text a couple times to make sure you understand the instructions properly, or at least I did. The size of the wooden blanks is critical in order to make this jig work properly as is the distance from the pivot point on the trammel to the outside edge of your chosen router bit. The spacers are also critical so make sure when you make them that you do them all at once or be very careful if you need to do two batches.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q2HhtW0hLCQ/Uiy0AZg8XbI/AAAAAAAAIXA/1Cnc5IN7ix0/s1600/DSCN0726-sm-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q2HhtW0hLCQ/Uiy0AZg8XbI/AAAAAAAAIXA/1Cnc5IN7ix0/s640/DSCN0726-sm-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The first picture shows the jig which is the 22 x 22" plywood sheet with the 90° corner attached to it. The corner and the axis for the trammel need to be lined up to the corners of the 22 inch square to make sure that the router cuts the semicircles consistently.<br />
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This picture shows the position of the blank to be cut and the V notched hold down to prevent the blank from skidding around on the plywood.<br />
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I glued 100 grit sandpaper on the top to prevent the wood from sliding around while routing it.<br />
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The instructions suggested a 1/2" spiral up cut bit but I don't have one on hand . Instead I used a 3/8" cutter and it seems to be just fine.<br />
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<em>The first mistake</em> I made was not giving myself a line around the trivet on which to stop the cut. I found it difficult if not impossible to see inside the router chamber and determine exactly where that was without a headlamp and a nice dark pencil line to follow.<br />
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<em>The second mistake</em> involved not setting the depth of cut stop securely on the router. After a couple of cuts the bit eased out and spoiled the first bank.<br />
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I also found that making several passes with the router produced a cleaner and sharper groove that just dropping the bit and plowing through the wood. There was negligible burning this way as well.<br />
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I started to hit my stride on the third attempt and shown here are two examples that made the grade.<br />
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With Christmas coming up you may want to give this project a try and make some useful stocking stuffers.<br />
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They sure to be a hit with the cooks in your family.<br />
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I managed to get 2 pieces cut so far as I had to mill pieces of walnut and Manitoba maple to 1/4" thickness and glue them up before cutting blanks. The trivet on the right has an extra piece of walnut down the center as I couldn't find any 6" stock in my horde. It is coated with Claphams salad bowl finish but I will just use mineral oil on the rest I think.<br />
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This is a shot of the trammel showing the peg on which it pivots. Note the 1/2' stick at the right end of the jig that serves to land the router at the end of each pass.<br />
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This picture shows the carbide cutter just clearing the walnut to expost the lighter maple wood.<br />
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This shows the set up for cutting the opposing side of the trivet.<br />
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This one looks like it will do. A little deeper on one pass but I will live with it.</div>
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obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-5915664808494262902013-02-28T11:49:00.003-08:002013-03-10T15:05:07.979-07:00My quest for Customer ServiceOne of the things I'm regreting is selling my five horse power, twin lung compressor with 60 gallon tank. The mere fact that it put out a continuous 12 CFM of air at 90 PSI was overlooked in my zeal to close down the shop.<br />
I do have a compressor in my shop now but it's only a 1 hp on a 20 gallon tank and struggles to put out 4 CFM at 40 PSI.<br />
Last week I found myself picking up one of my favorite spray guns and attempting to lay down a decent coat of water-based lacquer.<br />
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It became rapidly evident that wasn't going to happen and instead I ended up with runs and orange peel.<br />
Thus began my search over the Internet to find a <strong>low-volume low-pressure</strong> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyPEQmcn-tE">(LVLP)</a> gravity fed cup gun that I could use to finish my wood projects.<br />
These guns are reported to put out a decent spray at as low as 4 pounds per square inch at 30 psi albeit slower than the HVLP style guns.<br />
I located one in California that seemed like a good start <br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/SPRAYIT-SP-33000-Lvlp-Gravity-Spray/dp/B004DXUXN4/ref=pd_cp_hi_1">I found it listed at Amazon</a> and proceeded to go through the maze of instructions, blockades password instructions, wrong passwords, new passwords and finally to the order page where I was once again interrupted by an offer from Amazon to sign up for one of their credit cards for an additional $10 discount. <br />
At that moment I wasn't in the mood to sign up for discount or for that matter try to jam another credit card in my wallet.<br />
<strong><em><span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: x-large;">I just wanted the damn gun!</span></em></strong><br />
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After several attempts to appease the computer “robot God” by filling in the order form I finally got to the place where I could <em>actually</em> submit the form for approval when the robot informed me that this particular gun<strong><em> could not be shipped to my area</em></strong>.<br />
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<strong><span style="font-size: medium;"> Yippee! I cried, I get to search all over again!</span></strong><br />
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The next merchant I found carrying the product was called <a href="http://www.wayfair.com/keyword.php?keyword=gravity+feed+spray+guns&ust=gravity+feed+spray+guns&dpthead=&command=dosearch">Wayfair.</a> The advert clearly showed it would ship to Canada without filling in the whole data template <u>first</u> like Amazon. That robot seemed to take my information without pause after only two attempts I was ready to place the order. A screen popped up and asked me if everything was okay I said yes and the screen closed.<br />
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The next morning when I looked in my mailbox I had mail! <br />
A letter informing that <u>I had not</u> completed the transaction now I have to return to the website and okay the transaction again.<br />
I did that momentarily and have now received a confirmation that the product I ordered will be shipped tomorrow with the usual transaction fees and charges that bringing the cost of delivering the product to almost 75% of the selling price. <span style="color: red;">Gawd, I luv Free trade!</span><br />
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Just for the record, I feel you all should know that I did first try to make this purchase locally. <br />
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The first stop I made was to one of the <em>quieter</em> retailers in the area that rarely has any customers, at least when I visit.<br />
I had no trouble grabbing a clerk as I knew both of them that run the floor so I took one over to the spray guns and popped the question. <br />
"Do you have, or can you obtain, LVLP spray guns?"<br />
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His reply was "Don't you mean HVLP?"<br />
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I told him no that's not what I meant and he told me no he didn't have them. <br />
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While we were standing there I picked up a spray gun/turbine that was on display and priced at $349.<br />
(My next stop was to be KMS tools where they had advertised the <u>same machine</u> for $329.00<br />
<a href="http://www.kmstools.com/earlex-hvlp-turbine-spray-station-13206">http://www.kmstools.com/earlex-hvlp-turbine-spray-station-13206</a>)<br />
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(Nothing like checking your prices when a competitors flyer comes out!)<br />
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The clerk made no motion when I fumbled with the gun except to say maybe I should get that one. He never asked me what I was going to do with the gun for that matter he didn't seem that interested in finding out so I put it down an excused myself to the front of the store and proceeded to leave.<br />
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I should mention that on my way back to the front of the store I looked at a digital readout gauge that was packaged (perhaps in China or Taiwan) with a poor picture and no instructions on the cover.<br />
I asked the other clerk who is the manager of the store if he had one open so could see what it did. He said no. (INSERT AWKWARD PAUSE HERE)<br />
I said okay, what does it do? <br />
He picks up a package and wanders over to one of the table saws and holds the package in front of a table saw fence and tells me "it could go on here". Then he says "or maybe here". <br />
I say where does the readout page go? He waves his hand over the tabletop and tells me “anywhere up here”.<br />
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I decided against pursuing the device any further as it was obvious that this man had no intention of opening the package and letting me see what I was purchasing nor did he have even a remote clue of how exactly it would be mounted and what, if any advantage, it would offer me.<br />
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The long and the short of it is, these people are not trained, have no interest in being trained, and are simply minding the store for hourly wages.<br />
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I really believe that as the Internet matures and local warehousing becomes more frequent in Canada that retail stores such as this are going to find it difficult making ends meet.<br />
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Right now I'm looking forward to having my new low-volume low-pressure spray gun in my hands in the next two days. It's being delivered via Federal Express and they're awfully good.<br />
last Friday the gun arrived I was able to put it through its paces .<br />
I had a bit of trouble setting spray pattern because I was used to using a lot more air pressure to fan the paint and essentially more air to propel it .<br />
I also found with the new acrylic formulation I'm using that I had to use roughly about 10% of the <a href="http://www.woodessence.com/Target-Additives-C28.aspx">extender product</a> to level out the acrylic lacquer at the new lower pressure. I think I'm close to hitting the sweet spot with this gun and I attach here a couple of postings of my first attempt. <br />
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I have scarcely 20 minutes on this new toy but I feel confident that this is my new go to tool for applying all my clear finishes and stain.<br />
The cost of the gun was quite reasonable ( under 50 bucks ) so if need be I will purchase another one for stain and keep one just for clear coats.obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-40499323030096247552013-02-24T19:07:00.002-08:002013-02-26T16:18:46.737-08:00An electric chainsaw sharpener- good and bad<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_01W6iAP588/USrZYdc3OPI/AAAAAAAAIJg/DDcCFGJBuzg/s1600/chain+sharp+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="336" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_01W6iAP588/USrZYdc3OPI/AAAAAAAAIJg/DDcCFGJBuzg/s640/chain+sharp+1.jpg" width="640" /></a><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Over my lifetime I've sharpened a few hundred feet of chain on various saws with mixed results. It seems each time I do it by hand I get really good at it just about when it’s finished which means that I have a variety of teeth all sharpened at slightly different angles and usually a couple is skinned knuckles.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">I looked at electric chainsaw sharpeners the past but never found one that really fit my hobbyist budget. Generally speaking, the ones I saw were well in excess of $100 or more.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">On Saturday, as is my custom, I visited the local Princess Auto (toy store) which for all intents and purposes fills the gap left here in Canada by not having a Harbor Freight outlet.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">After seeing this unit in the flyer I was delighted to see a full palette of them on the floor and I rushed over with a couple of other guys wherein we took part justifying the purchase together and each wandered away with the sharpener underarm. I bought an extra stone for mine while I was there because as luck usually has it they're out of stock when I need one so it's better to have a extra than to be short.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Like many low-end products today this one was made in China and required the usual tweaking and adjusting to make it function as it should. The instruction that came with it were just awful with washed out pictures and a parts list that only and eagle scout could read accompanied by English text that left everything to be desired.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The first problem I ran into was that the two removable guide plates that held the saw blade in the proper position were loose and I couldn't get the back of the chain in between the plates without using an instrument to hold them apart. I solved that by slipping elastic band between them as shown here:</span></span><span style="clear: right; float: right; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; height: 474px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; width: 653px;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><img alt="chain-sharp-3" border="0" height="446" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-sIKIkzWWr7o/USrSvo1eVZI/AAAAAAAAIIY/SoFBLSmjhVY/chain-sharp-3_thumb%25255B5%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="chain-sharp-3" width="594" /></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">The next problem </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">I ran into was that the nut holding the chain stop in position was<br /> </span></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">shipped </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">out with the thread stripped. That would have been a minor consideration had the bolt holding the stop not been of a special design that prevented me from using a substitute.<br /> </span></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;">After several attempts, I managed to pack enough washers on the ball I was able to grasp a bit of the thread and temporarily repair the</span> <span style="color: black;">defect</span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Apart from a few adjustments to snug up the assembly I was nearly ready to do a trial with an old chain.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">There are enough stops on the machine to allow you to slide the chain through the slot as shown above and up to the stop.when it’s in position you can decide which direction to turn the pivoting head to either sharpen the right or left set of teeth or swing the head back and forth.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">There is also stop at the back of the machine that limits the depth of cut so you don't damage the actual chain body removing the chain back and forth during the sharpening process.Once the chain is adjusted against the cleaned saw stop You can snug it up with adjustable chain tool as shown below.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">From that point on It's simply a matter of moving the chain forward and repeating the process till you're finished.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-I1u8XhIO500/USrSw6DKXyI/AAAAAAAAIIo/6hILiRVZMfw/s1600-h/chain-sharp-6%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><img alt="chain-sharp-6" border="0" height="460" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wSoEAgtneYc/USrSxa6X4kI/AAAAAAAAIIw/qAm1Y8Vnhzc/chain-sharp-6_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="chain-sharp-6" width="612" /></span></a></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The reason for building the small table to support the jig to allow the chain itself to hang</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">down away from the underside of the jig and to allow the chain to slide forward and backward as adjustments are being ma</span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">de The last picture shows An example of one of the teeth Just sharpened on this rig.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-fD2bKJ4rSHM/USrSyJ3jnZI/AAAAAAAAII4/RFKlBcEY3G4/s1600-h/chain-stop-5%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><img alt="chain-stop-5" border="0" height="465" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1AtH_QotiTA/USrSy_uS4zI/AAAAAAAAIJA/fFEGfdFnREc/chain-stop-5_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="chain-stop-5" width="619" /></span></a></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Once the machine was set up for the chain it became very consistent and actually quite quick.</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">I do recommend that you turn the machine off while adjusting the chain as there is little room for error and the machine could bite you if you're not careful,</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCGHw4hHhqw/US1O2Ply46I/AAAAAAAAIKw/TjYESsZTlxg/s1600/chain-stop-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCGHw4hHhqw/US1O2Ply46I/AAAAAAAAIKw/TjYESsZTlxg/s640/chain-stop-11.jpg" width="640" /></a></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="chain-sharp-8" border="0" height="419" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/--MTLTJC6SA0/USrS0GtqaqI/AAAAAAAAIJQ/ZdPTm8JHhoo/chain-sharp-8_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="chain-sharp-8" width="640" /></span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"></span><br /></b>obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-85100491813237378462013-02-13T15:26:00.000-08:002013-02-16T14:20:18.281-08:00Refurbishing a Vintage Jewelry BoxI found this jewelry box in a second hand store a couple weeks ago and thought it might be fun to try to refurbish it. It had seen better days but the style and size were still very popular. I have seen new ones similar to this retailing in the $200 to $300 range so I figured it wouldn't be a really bad investment to see what I could do with.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here's a picture of it before I started disassembling and repairing several scratched and dented areas plus removing the well used and well-worn velvet liner.</span><br />
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I<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> cleaned up the several dings around the box and filled the area with furniture wax <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20069&cat=1,190,42997">filler sticks</a> from Lee Valley. They are mostly comprised of resin and colored to approximate several popular shades wood. I use an alcohol torch and a Dental Instrument to apply the patching material and smooth the patch with the back of an instrument to approximate the surface.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A little bit of gentle sanding and the dings were flush with the surface and ready for a bit of staining.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Segoe UI;">One of the feet was <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">missing so I took a pattern</span> of the opposite side and reversed it and milled out the profile on my router table and with a little judicious filing I was able to approximate the style of the other feet.</span><span style="font-family: Segoe UI;"><span style="font-family: Segoe UI;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"></span> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As you can see from the picture below the liner had seen better days so I very carefully spent a few minutes removing and storing it away in a safe place until I could get some more velvet and some card stock for backing.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qHZ-3f5tUvU/URwZ6lCd5PI/AAAAAAAAICQ/bod36STG78w/s1600/jbox+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qHZ-3f5tUvU/URwZ6lCd5PI/AAAAAAAAICQ/bod36STG78w/s640/jbox+2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Segoe UI; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Segoe UI; font-size: small;">Rather than completely remove the existing outside surface I chose to apply <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64181&cat=1,190,42942">water-based stain</a> to the entire surface and adjust the tone of the wood exterior to match the top which required complete stripping due to the damage on the surface.<br />
<br /> Here is a picture of the box stripped out with the hardware removed. It looks like they used some sort of a hide glue originally. The material I have on hand sets rather quickly so I decided to use Elmers' spray adhesive that I'm more familiar with . </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This shows a picture of the blended stain which I hand rubbed with a piece of paper towel to even out the repairs and the several different shades that the many years of use of taken on the box</span>.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shown here is the finished box with the nameplate reinstalled. I couldn't find a new plate for it at this time so I gently sanded off the original name and polished the brass the new flat surface . The finish that I'm using is <a href="http://www.woodessence.com/EM7000-Hi-Build-Lacquer-P212.aspx">an acrylic polymer</a> from T<strong>arge</strong>t coatings. It handles in many respects very similar to nitrocellulose which is no longer available to me . I find it will burns in quite well, it's relatively clear, and it responds well to polishing compounds used industrially .</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> This picture shows the bottom drawer open with the new velvet added. I have yet to glue down the side liners as I wanted to complete all fitting of the liners to be sure that there weren't too many obvious flaws.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This final shot shows the top and bottom along with the movable tray finished with the red velvet . The color was not my first choice but here in the "Great White North" purchasing velvet can be a bit of a trial both from the perspective of obtaining quality product and having more than a limited choice of colors. For my taste, I would have chosen a</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">deeper royal red but surprisingly, this shows quite well .</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BCcyTgF3Cd4/URwjFYETQcI/AAAAAAAAIDA/jNFCW7hiMKQ/s1600/j-box+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BCcyTgF3Cd4/URwjFYETQcI/AAAAAAAAIDA/jNFCW7hiMKQ/s640/j-box+10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-33799233833848598842013-02-02T16:10:00.002-08:002013-02-25T10:30:34.313-08:00An adjustable miter frame for picturesAfter an "exhilerating" experience with some offshore miter clamps I decided to investigate making something more reliable. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h4F7MmbAoPs/UQ2nqX4KGJI/AAAAAAAAH_I/rdJEXeyF4Bc/s1600/plywood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h4F7MmbAoPs/UQ2nqX4KGJI/AAAAAAAAH_I/rdJEXeyF4Bc/s640/plywood.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I started out with a 10 inch wide piece of 3/4" plywood and a rudementary plan from <b><span style="color: #800040; font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: #800040; font-family: Arial;"></span></span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: #800040; font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: #800040; font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://www.craftsmanspace.com/">WWW.CRAFTSMANSPACE.COM</a>.</span></span></b><br />
Caution, it's metric and translated into decimal inches. There's no directions so take your time and work it out.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z-c7ot8t6YE/UQ2oNaihjUI/AAAAAAAAH_Q/RcuiUY5UJ1w/s1600/4-arms-with-holes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z-c7ot8t6YE/UQ2oNaihjUI/AAAAAAAAH_Q/RcuiUY5UJ1w/s640/4-arms-with-holes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I cut 4 - 26" strips 2-3/8" wide for the adjustable arms and layed out first the 3/4" recesses for the bolt heads and secondarily drilled the dimples out left by the forstner bit with a 1/4" bit to allow the bolts to pass through.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VV-IU04YXFM/UQ2pk2I-FqI/AAAAAAAAH_o/mpaV4IyiF7Q/s1600/corner-frame-assembled-frt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nrXCrJ7V--w/UQ2ouIjrDjI/AAAAAAAAH_Y/fktXoTzcXEs/s1600/4-corners-cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nrXCrJ7V--w/UQ2ouIjrDjI/AAAAAAAAH_Y/fktXoTzcXEs/s640/4-corners-cut.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next chore was to cut the 4 V blocks that the frame corners would sit in and the cross pieces to join the top and bottom members. The next picture shows the blocks notched and drilled and the cross bars milled and drilled. I chose a 5/16" threaded rod for more stablility than the suggested 1/4" .<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1qRjnz4-HGI/UQ2pDg-zrHI/AAAAAAAAH_g/IYzUkKhL0qg/s1600/DSCN0372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1qRjnz4-HGI/UQ2pDg-zrHI/AAAAAAAAH_g/IYzUkKhL0qg/s640/DSCN0372.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VV-IU04YXFM/UQ2pk2I-FqI/AAAAAAAAH_o/mpaV4IyiF7Q/s1600/corner-frame-assembled-frt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VV-IU04YXFM/UQ2pk2I-FqI/AAAAAAAAH_o/mpaV4IyiF7Q/s640/corner-frame-assembled-frt.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Heres' the frame clamp assembled.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iH95zHOAjUo/UQ2qmvpS06I/AAAAAAAAIAA/FLOUnMJyjgA/s1600/frame-with-jig-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iH95zHOAjUo/UQ2qmvpS06I/AAAAAAAAIAA/FLOUnMJyjgA/s640/frame-with-jig-sm.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here it is with a 50" mirror frame in place for the picture.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jdB4V0bj0Pc/UQ2qZkP9XPI/AAAAAAAAH_4/zG5RwV860Qk/s1600/frame-jig-with-frame.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jdB4V0bj0Pc/UQ2qZkP9XPI/AAAAAAAAH_4/zG5RwV860Qk/s640/frame-jig-with-frame.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The jury's out until I get a couple of frames under my belt but it looks promising and it isn't from China!</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IEXb2cFuGQc/UQ7_9co4nWI/AAAAAAAAIAQ/A6rYxKmZwyg/s1600/frame-folded1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IEXb2cFuGQc/UQ7_9co4nWI/AAAAAAAAIAQ/A6rYxKmZwyg/s640/frame-folded1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I can undo the center toggle and it stores quite well without taking up too much space.</div>
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here's the finsihed mirrors hung up on the dining room wall.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7jmO-gzS_rc/USupLkurhrI/AAAAAAAAIJ4/6XyBO4R7VCk/s1600/mirror-frame-F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7jmO-gzS_rc/USupLkurhrI/AAAAAAAAIJ4/6XyBO4R7VCk/s640/mirror-frame-F.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mo4dQ6Pigjw/USupwGFB7vI/AAAAAAAAIKA/wO8r_UpF6DI/s640/mirror-frmes-F1.jpg" width="480" /></div>
obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-58140634793334318492013-01-27T18:14:00.000-08:002013-01-27T19:27:24.475-08:00Really Bad miter clamps<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-whU6DKZi5aU/UQXpY0agdwI/AAAAAAAAH-4/esSPYDyoZLw/s1600/miter-clamp-jaws.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-whU6DKZi5aU/UQXpY0agdwI/AAAAAAAAH-4/esSPYDyoZLw/s400/miter-clamp-jaws.jpg" width="400" /></a>Last year I bought a set of four miter clamps from a local big box store tool department. (Rona Revy)
Yesterday I took them out to help me building two picture frames to house a couple of mirrors I had cut to size.
I had no idea until I began using them that they're quite obviously knockoff clamps designed to look like the original ones I once owned that were made in the USA.
They certainly weren't inexpensive so I was quite surprised at the lack of attention to detail both by the manufacturer and subsequently by the distributor then the buyers at the big-box store.
All lines of defense protect me from my own stupidity were let down.
I found on closer inspection once the joints had failed, in that one set of jaws on the clamp were mounted a good 3 mm higher than the jaws on the adjoining side.
I spent a frantic hour yesterday pushing and pulling and wiping and cleaning and re-gluing and pushing and pulling and wiping before I realized that these clamps are junk.<br />
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I have no idea what I might have done with the invoice after this long period of time So bringing them back to the merchant would be an exercise in futility.
That's why I'm posting this information on my blog to warn my fellow woodworkers once again to be prudent when shopping for woodworking tools.
This first picture will give you an idea of just how much out of line to jaws really are
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As you can see in the picture, there's a huge gap under the left jaw which should be parallel with the right jaw.
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The next picture is a better idea of the type of clamp I was using.
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And finally the last shot shows the brand name of this clamp as it was sold to me from the big-box <br />
store.
<b>TOOLTECH</b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oQ7Q0cfXbzA/UQXOLokyNCI/AAAAAAAAH-E/g66jes6X_Tk/s1600/miter-clamp-brand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oQ7Q0cfXbzA/UQXOLokyNCI/AAAAAAAAH-E/g66jes6X_Tk/s400/miter-clamp-brand.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I couldn't do anything at all with these clamps and, in desperation,I called my wife and we laid out the frames and glued them. She held one end in place and I held the other and we both stood there like dummies until the glue set.
Here's what we were trying to glue up.
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ro4twpVAso/UQXPj44-sMI/AAAAAAAAH-Y/iEPR3Z2uVzw/s1600/mirror%2Bon%2Bsaw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ro4twpVAso/UQXPj44-sMI/AAAAAAAAH-Y/iEPR3Z2uVzw/s400/mirror%2Bon%2Bsaw.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's another shot of the miters. Not perfect but togther finally!
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The next step is staining and finish.
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l2aU-ZLi85E/UQXo2WrvgEI/AAAAAAAAH-s/lGeTjN0T1lY/s1600/Mirror-frames-3D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l2aU-ZLi85E/UQXo2WrvgEI/AAAAAAAAH-s/lGeTjN0T1lY/s400/Mirror-frames-3D.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-30876180791803081112012-10-21T19:04:00.001-07:002013-04-03T13:42:41.659-07:00Using a Trephine to remove broken screws in WoodIf you do any furniture repair you have probalby come cross a screw or nail that has broken off flush with the wood surface.<br />
Digging it out with prys or pliers generally damages the surrounding wood severely and can compensate the repair.<br />
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<span style="color: #3d85c6; font-size: large;">Enter the Trephine.</span> </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0bDKYCAXyV4/UISIA_PONBI/AAAAAAAAH7U/PzmTgnZJZLU/s1600/the-trephine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0bDKYCAXyV4/UISIA_PONBI/AAAAAAAAH7U/PzmTgnZJZLU/s640/the-trephine.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Borrowed from the medical and dental field this hollow steel tube sharpened with saw teeth can accurately core out a small section of the surrounding wood leaving a concentric hole that is easily repaired with a dowel plug.<br />
Trephines currently come in 3 sizes and will handle most screws or nails found in common furniture products.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ndFUqpQzg7s/UISJaMR_37I/AAAAAAAAH7c/h3mm3CPms_s/s1600/lost-screw-in-rung.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><strong><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ndFUqpQzg7s/UISJaMR_37I/AAAAAAAAH7c/h3mm3CPms_s/s640/lost-screw-in-rung.jpg" width="640" /></strong></a></div>
<strong>Here's an example of how they are used</strong>. <br />
This picture shows a screw broken off flush with the end of a rung. If you have trouble centering the trephine cut a small guide hole in plywood scrap with the trephine and mount that with double sided tape to the top of the rung.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-klbZepMeDoQ/UISJ9_XtKzI/AAAAAAAAH7k/SQcOCFGEhcM/s1600/screw-tunneled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-klbZepMeDoQ/UISJ9_XtKzI/AAAAAAAAH7k/SQcOCFGEhcM/s640/screw-tunneled.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
When the surface is cleaned to allow the drill to sit flush against the rung the trephine is gently pressed into the surface with short drill bursts and allowed to clear the debris before continuing. <br />
Once the screw has been tunneled along it's entire length you can use a sharp instrument to pry away the wood between the screw and the kerf until the screw frees up.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CWihwShcecE/UISKe5C72LI/AAAAAAAAH7s/hocVsVqkc6w/s1600/screw-extracted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CWihwShcecE/UISKe5C72LI/AAAAAAAAH7s/hocVsVqkc6w/s640/screw-extracted.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here the screw is out and the hole debrided you can fit a length of doweling in the hole or custom</div>
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turn a matched piece if the repair will show.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DIErpxTE1MU/UISw-X54_8I/AAAAAAAAH8Q/ShknchDs8TE/s1600/dowel-in-rung.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
A narrow chisel will take care of the remaining splinters by twisting it in the channel. If you have a suitable drill bit you can try this as well.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DIErpxTE1MU/UISw-X54_8I/AAAAAAAAH8Q/ShknchDs8TE/s1600/dowel-in-rung.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DIErpxTE1MU/UISw-X54_8I/AAAAAAAAH8Q/ShknchDs8TE/s640/dowel-in-rung.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once the screw is out and the hole debrided you can fit a length of doweling in the hole or custom</div>
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turn a matched piece if the repair will show.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYUu8ZbUpx0/UISxl67cYLI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/bbI-saOFbpo/s1600/dowel-cemented.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="479" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYUu8ZbUpx0/UISxl67cYLI/AAAAAAAAH8Y/bbI-saOFbpo/s640/dowel-cemented.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Here's the finished repair ready for a new screw or nail.<br />
I purchased mine from <a href="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/">Highland woodworking</a> . You'll find them under<a href="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/set3hollowscrewextractors.aspx"> screw extractors</a>.<br />
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obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-91581594069525633702012-05-20T06:30:00.000-07:002012-05-20T18:49:04.670-07:00Taming tear out on finger joints - Baltic Birch plywood<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
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I’ve become accustomed to using quarter inch plywood with finger joints to build storage boxes for some of my tools.The reason I chose this method is that by using finger joints I don’t require any additional support for the box and given the rather thin quarter inch exterior is not a lot of room for additional support for dadoes or splines.</div>
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Most recently, I purchased a new sheet of quarter inch Baltic Birch. The stamp on the material tells me it came from Eastern Europe and quite possibly Russia.</div>
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I ran into a problem with the sheet in that there was unreasonable amount of tearout while cutting and milling the product. Repeated attempts to cut a joint that at least, could serve as a storage box in the shop led to disappointment. The wood splintered, it chipped front and back, the internal layers between fractured and fell out.<br />
In frustration, I gathered up a couple of samples and tossed the rest of the sheet into the truck and returned to my supplier. They explained to me that they <em>"had not had any complaints except for mine"</em> regarding this product and suggested that I tape both sides of the joint with painters tape and or use sacrificial wood strips on either side of the joint.<br />
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I returned home rather disappointed and patched up enough wood for the project to put it bed for the time being.<br />
Today I had another opportunity to go over my work and take a very close look at the bits I was using to cut the joints.<br />
I had tried a single blade quarter inch a double bladed blade quarter inch on 1/4 inch shaft as well as a double blade quarter inch on a half-inch shaft. In addition I used a 1/4 inch solid carbide spiral up cut carbide all without reasonable improvement.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-URNVaMLbs5M/T7h1C2aPFqI/AAAAAAAAH4E/lVe0BZ7ORcg/s1600/DSC03159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kba="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-URNVaMLbs5M/T7h1C2aPFqI/AAAAAAAAH4E/lVe0BZ7ORcg/s320/DSC03159.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I began to think that there must be something in the process of making the plywood that made it different from other batches I had used over the years. There were the same number of plies as before and the thickness of the Baltic Birch itself was dead on one quarter of an inch so I ruled that out. I tried to see if the material used inside the plywood was different from what I’d use previously but was unable to tell from such a small sample. The internal layers where breaking off as I milled the finger joints so they were either made from a very brittle wood or the glue used to binding the layers was more brittle than I was used to.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EhewZsUUyZ4/T7h1S_ib-2I/AAAAAAAAH4M/nSb3jTKBThw/s1600/DSC03161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kba="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EhewZsUUyZ4/T7h1S_ib-2I/AAAAAAAAH4M/nSb3jTKBThw/s400/DSC03161.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
I decided to try longshot, I got a small spray bottle, put some water in it and lightly sprayed both sides of a test sample.<br />
There was just enough moisture there to be visible to the naked eye and I used paper towel to remove the excess.I let the wood set for about five minutes in order to have the moisture penetrate and proceeded to mill several joints.<br />
Surprisingly, this method worked and I was able to mill about 10 joints without a single joint exploding against the bit.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N3OMDcbhpB4/T7h2DV_2zKI/AAAAAAAAH4c/FmuYT-MCk6E/s1600/DSC03162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" kba="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N3OMDcbhpB4/T7h2DV_2zKI/AAAAAAAAH4c/FmuYT-MCk6E/s640/DSC03162.JPG" width="640" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i85eEUx6tss/T7h4Qef09NI/AAAAAAAAH4k/HOPbHVbViXc/s1600/DSC03160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" kba="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i85eEUx6tss/T7h4Qef09NI/AAAAAAAAH4k/HOPbHVbViXc/s640/DSC03160.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I think at this point, I could recommend this method to help overcome brittle wood when cutting dovetails keys or finger joints. I also found tear out along the table saw cuts as well and if you’re having trouble there you might try this method as well.<br />
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I have concluded that the wood used is not as good as it once was and that the filler layers may be substandard for this purpose. I also wonder if the wood had been subject to undue heat and pressure in order to speed up the manufacturing process and increase profits. At any rate the material cuts like glass and needs every precuation to prevent tearout. For the time being, this seems to work for me.</div>obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-29141466485305245232011-08-11T09:32:00.001-07:002011-08-11T09:36:01.737-07:00Wixey Bevel gauge observations<a href="http://www.members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/WixeyBevelgaugeobservations/">http://www.members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/WixeyBevelgaugeobservations/</a><br />
<u><span style="color: blue;">WixeyBevelgaugeobservations</span></u>obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-52939728578556953502011-06-05T20:48:00.000-07:002011-07-17T20:22:45.166-07:00DeWalt DWP611PK 1-1/4 hp Router Kit<table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gndM5G4ZrsKi6SRprfRmvg?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="484px" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n5SISEmLBJQ/Te2SZ7cwf9I/AAAAAAAAHwo/plRzUs0gKj4/s800/router-and-bases.jpg" width="646px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Having first seen this router on the United States Dewalt website last October, I was finally able to track one down here in Canada June 5, 2011.<br />
(7 months later)<br />
Compact routers are great for working with trim, laminates, veneers and many other types of precision woodworking tasks. They're easy to use and maneuver, and offer power enough to tackle a wide variety of projects. The DeWalt DWP611 Variable Speed Compact Router is a true stand out in the compact router category. It features a powerful 1.25 HP motor that will breeze through even the most demanding tasks, and the variable speeds allow you to dial in just the right amount of power the job calls for. The soft start features will reduce the chances of chipping and cracking during startup, and the electronic feedback control helps maintain consistent motor speed throughout the cut. The key to router accuracy is a good view of the cut area, and the DWP611 offers 2 bright LED's and a clear sub base that combine to give you the clear view you need for the most accuracy possible. The DeWalt DWP611 Variable Speed Compact Router is a feature rich and affordable way to take your woodworking projects to the next level.<br />
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<tr><td></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>A very well put together video by <a href="http://www.gordgraff.com/component/content/article/63-dewalt-125-hp-compact-router-kit-dwp611pk-">Gord Graff</a> convinced me that this would be my go to router system for small jobs not requiring a router table. I was also interested in something lighter in weight that I could use with my Leigh dovetail jig.<br />
Yesterday I unpacked the router and briefly reviewed the accompanying instructions.<br />
I understand that there are accessories for this router system but they are poorly described in the brochure and apparently not described at all on the website.<br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">I did ask when I purchased the kit if the dealer had been given additional information but apparently they had not.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">The accessories I am refering to are pretty much standard fare for routing in today's world. I was expecting information about fence system and further information regarding dust collection which at present,the world considers "optional". I was not expecting these options free but could have used the part numbers for them to obtian info and availabilty.</div>I did find out from the brochure that in order to equip both the fixed base and the plunge base I will require two fences and two dust collection cups. As there are no part numbers for these accessories the task will be daunting given my experiences over the last seven months with the DeWalt website and their Canadian representatives here in the West.<br />
I managed to find a fence from another router that fits the plunge base but nothing for the fixed base as yet.<br />
<table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><b>Breaking up the kit</b><br />
The 1-1/4 HP router motor assembly comes with two built-in LED lights. I've found that because of their position and the angle of the lights themselves that they only will illuminate the working area so long as the distance from the motor to the product is greater than 1 inch<br />
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<tr><td><table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4JDVV_bsjCXiC9K6zAMGNQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="484px" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q6jo10l77D8/TexMAaZYFoI/AAAAAAAAHvs/1qrfYTIP87M/s800/router-lights1.jpg" width="646px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Any closer than that and there is no illumination at all around cutting bit. That was one of the features that I was looking forward to with this product and it's surprising that this was not addressed. This will be a problem for those of us that use a jig between the router and the work piece as illustrated here:<br />
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<table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/XfPmggXEkQrGPt0_JbjkpQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="484px" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZbhG_wxoy10/TexMDv95ZPI/AAAAAAAAHv0/AlA9VEg_918/s800/router-ligthts-2.jpg" width="646px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"></div></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I realize that from an engineering perspective they probably had to be machined where they currently sit but it would have been nice had they injection molded a light deflecting prism to reflect the light more directly on the work area. Also I noticed right away that it would've been helpful for set up if the lights could be turned on and off without starting the router motor. They are currently connected to the on-off switch. This makes setting up for a cut harder than it should be.<br />
Both bases are simple to remove from the motor and easy to adjust.<br />
I like the variable speed and the soft start on the motor as it gives me lots of control over cut rates and over heating of bits in some circumstances.<br />
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Incidently, at time of writing this blog the best information for spare parts and accessories seems to be <a href="http://www.tools-plus.com/dewalt-dwp611.html">Toolsplus.com</a> Kudos for taking the time to help out the consumer.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">What I have now is an extra fence for the fixed and plunge router and a centering device to fix the base for use with a guide bushing.</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ch34d8nsngHSZFcsS30jTA?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="369px" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bNzjw9as5w4/ThkXEVGXEoI/AAAAAAAAHxo/Vg_wYpqhVko/s800/Dw-accessories.jpg" width="492px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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The auxilary fence is relativley striaght forward to assemble.<br />
<table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IeJVkEUx93OvW0o9MWoMJg?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="396px" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pLT7GEyymyQ/ThkXA6Yc_5I/AAAAAAAAHxc/4y66jvhm6-E/s800/set-fence-on-base.jpg" width="576px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
You have to remove the 4 screws on plastic base to install the fence to the casting and reverse the process to remove it.<br />
<b>No you don't!</b><br />
After assembling the jig and taking a closer look at the sub base I find that there are indeed two holes in the base through which I can screw on the auxillary fence. I would be embarrassed with the oversight had I not read the non exisitent instructions.<br />
The unit ( mine) was shipped with the fence positioned upside down. -A bummer for the newbies.<br />
I have no idea what the metric and imperial rulers are supposed to measure. There seems no zero point???<br />
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The fence provided for the plunge router base is adapted to fit the Dewalt track saw track and, as such, becomes an expensive substitute for a simple fence.( around $49.00) I managed to find an orphan fence in my tools that will suffice for this router rather than spend another $50 for yet another accessory.<br />
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<table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JPvlF34WRSYFnVkDWyCrPw?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="369px" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LonQ2MXMLQI/ThkXDM2IbPI/AAAAAAAAHxk/uRYmsUAkHN4/s800/plunge-fence.jpg" width="492px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The base centering spindle affair is pretty straight forward but I can't see how it is an "extra" accessory given the fact that you need something to center the base should you ever need to remove it.<br />
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<table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bGtzxp3kW3AxRPxgsF9ykA?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="312px" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x-DbCF_S8vs/ThkXFmbEYAI/AAAAAAAAHxs/Ef1o2F7tkoA/s800/centering-device.jpg" width="576px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
Lastly the dust collection cup is now being ordered as it was not listed with the other accessories and the fellow that helped me had to google it to find a part number before he could search the Dewalt tools database to order it.<br />
Somebody at Dewalt needs to review the parts lists and the website to get the information out to the endusers. The dealers say they have no info and don't stock parts and the parts and service say they normally dont stock parts for new products. I find this a bit confusing.<br />
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While waiting for the dust collection cup to arrive from Dewalt I ran a box to contain the router , bases and extras to hopefully avoid misplacing parts of the system. The kit came with a small canvas bag but I gave it to my wife to hold her battery cables in her car.<br />
<table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3HbSM4RU6HZ9lFQbPdLKhw?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="441px" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G5DjMasoR9I/TiNZiKhldwI/AAAAAAAAHzY/i9K1UFSBMaw/s800/box-router-open.jpg" width="588px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I photostated the cover from the cardborad shipping box and glued them to the boxe. Using finger joints I was able to build the box with 1/4" fir plylwood and finger joints with a sliding lid.<br />
<table style="width: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/nhDniGojlWBt9GaLOj2W8w?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="441px" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bV4tlirjX5s/TiNZggFu1DI/AAAAAAAAHzU/it4bwCbryHI/s800/box-for-router-complete.jpg" width="588px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/Dw611RouterKit?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">dw611 router kit</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I made up a box for my Fein Muti tool as well.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SZkJ56MRxj_Tn25T7dR66g?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CVv1MSyJcwU/TiNZj91v4uI/AAAAAAAAHzc/renjyWZaMrU/s800/fein-box.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=boboswin&target=ALBUM&id=5614946308985387473&feat=embedwebsite"></a></td></tr></table>obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-91923814378826294382011-05-17T14:03:00.000-07:002011-05-17T14:03:36.944-07:00Narex mortise Chisels Set of 5I bought a five piece set of Narex mortise chisels and so far have had an opportunity to actual work with one.<br />
I'm quite pleased with the fit and finish and this steel quality which seems to be just right for my liking. Not too brittle, takes an edge quickly and seems to sharpen without leaving too much curl on the cutting-edge.(Rc59) They have a nice weight to them in a nice feel in my hand and the blades are definitely long enough to be able to hold the blade in alignment while gently tapping the butt to form the mortise.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z9xmhfLWrARvcNnocxSP5w?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TNcE8Y9WJII/AAAAAAAAHZ0/sbxeKH20c8c/s800/Narex%20mortise%20set.jpg" height="326" width="414" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/NarexMortiseChisels?feat=embedwebsite">narex mortise chisels</a></td></tr></table><br />
I'm a bit short of time this weekend for various reasons so I gave the half-inch chisel a bit of a flattening on the back and re-honed the long bevel edge on the front so I could try the chisel on some wood today.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5AIskkiaTFc7Q3pVPSH3ig?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TNcE-GNmWUI/AAAAAAAAHZ4/E3ViWgOCy4w/s800/chsiel-honed.jpg" height="326" width="492" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/NarexMortiseChisels?feat=embedwebsite">narex mortise chisels</a></td></tr></table><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gjtUr75PI9sRJEShCtgIDg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TNcE7iO0PcI/AAAAAAAAHZw/A5CfxtAwL8w/s800/chisel-back-flattened.jpg" height="326" width="492" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/NarexMortiseChisels?feat=embedwebsite">narex mortise chisels</a></td></tr></table><br />
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I grabbed a piece of 2 x 4 Spruce stock , flattened the top with a Jack plane, and dropped the mortise with her one half-inch bit in my Triton router.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8OZOvgxu698NhbmMNYV3Yg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TNcE_jkzH5I/AAAAAAAAHZ8/MHyS5_Jdvn0/s800/routered-mortise.jpg" height="326" width="492" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/NarexMortiseChisels?feat=embedwebsite">narex mortise chisels</a></td></tr></table><br />
As shown in the following picture the half-inch mortise is an excellent fit to the half-inch router bit I am using and it actually took just a few seconds to square a each end of the of the mortise.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PZw2Lw3JhTcMj0302Hhw9A?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TNcFAXQHsLI/AAAAAAAAHaE/TrvkYwXof-Q/s800/LG--mortise-chisel.jpg" height="326" width="492" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/NarexMortiseChisels?feat=embedwebsite">narex mortise chisels</a></td></tr></table>This is a picture of the finished mortise and although it is not a textbook example using a hardwood it has given me confidence to go ahead and finish honing the other four chisels.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KN3M4hGzTwJRSjv7uriEKw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TNcFBjqRBjI/AAAAAAAAHaI/AU0ymTHvvxs/s800/finished-mortise.jpg" height="326" width="492" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/NarexMortiseChisels?feat=embedwebsite">narex mortise chisels</a></td></tr></table><br />
The set consists of a 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, and 1/2" chisels.<br />
They come as shown with blade guards but do not include a fancy case which I generally end up tossing out anyway.<br />
They're modestly priced and a pleasure to work with. I found mine at the Valley tools and I do understand that this brand from Czechoslovakia is also available at Highland woodworking in the US.obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-40808241413123754512011-02-02T11:48:00.000-08:002011-02-02T11:48:30.429-08:00Modifying trim routers for template gauges.<div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFIH3ISY8I/AAAAAAAAAMo/ZxykBY8XNO8/s1600-h/bushing-rotosip2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084924754172994498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFIH3ISY8I/AAAAAAAAAMo/ZxykBY8XNO8/s400/bushing-rotosip2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />
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<div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFHynISY7I/AAAAAAAAAMg/Dvxq8KuzpCM/s1600-h/bushing-base-rotozip.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084924389100774322" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFHynISY7I/AAAAAAAAAMg/Dvxq8KuzpCM/s400/bushing-base-rotozip.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />
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<div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFF1nISY6I/AAAAAAAAAMY/KseoZUJW_bw/s1600-h/bushing-rotosip2.jpg"></a><br />
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<div><br />
I find that my big 2 and 3 hp routers are not up to the delicate task of routing patterns or inlays .<br />
I was not prepared to ad yet another dedicated tool to my arsenal to I decided to modify a couple of my weapons to accept brass bushing's biggest problem for me was getting the bushing set dead center over the chuck and the template base drilled to exactly holed that position when screwed back on the base. Trial and error lead me to use the centering pin shown here to mark center then drill the template hole first. </div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFF1nISY6I/AAAAAAAAAMY/KseoZUJW_bw/s1600-h/bushing-rotosip2.jpg"></a><br />
<br />
<div>Now, inserting the template guide baking to the lexan I could mark and drill for the set screws. In thus situation I am making the jig to retrofit my Rotozip general purpose trimmer.. It just sits in the shop most of the time as it was limited to 2-3 tasks and now can handle a 4th.I used two sheets of lexan here, One has a cut out to receive the Rotozip base and the other forms the base with the hole for the bushing. I joined them together with epoxy. the base has yet to be trimmed down as the epoxy was slow setting yesterday with the humidity.Heres the completed jig for the router zip:That's piece of scrap aluminum with set screws to hold the front of the jig where the metal strip at the back holds the guide when attached to the black screw on the height adjustment. This one is fitted to a cheap under $40.00 router that is ultra light with variable speed. I can get a larger bit in here to hog out the inside of a pattern quickly then switch to the inlay bit to refine the edges for the actual inlay.I suppose I could have been a bit neater but it works.So why did I do this?Here's what I am trying to get perfected; Iwant to be able to cut a pattern quickly and efficiently without a lot of bit changes and or the possibility of running out of the pattern.I felt I needed more tactical control than I was getting with full sized routers.I'm not quite spot on but the results are encouraging.</div></div></div></div>obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-22634681521280782472011-01-18T05:01:00.001-08:002013-02-16T07:41:52.663-08:00Making an Octagonal Bird feeder.I haven't blogged before so bear with me while I find out where the rocks are. <g><br />
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/BirdHousesAndFeeders/photo#5077376656765739138"><img height="424" src="http://lh3.google.com/image/boboswin/RnZ3KxFh4II/AAAAAAAAADA/MsyDM_qfF3M/s492/new-feeder-downy.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
It looks like I managed to get pictures in here so here goes the story:<br />
<br />
BTW, that is a Downey woodpecker doing a close up investigation.<br />
<br />
I have been fussing with critters all my life and birds are among my favourites.<br />
By attracting them I gain the benefit of their company and the side benefit of their constant insect control.<br />
These feeders are 8 sided and fun to build in the shop.<br />
I have found some work arounds for the windows and the feed area that could save you some time.<br />
I like to keep a piece of cut stock from a previous feeder to use as a guide to set up my saw<br />
For future cuts but I am finding that this wixey angle gauge is taking a lot of the set up time out of the job.<br />
Now I just set the angle off the number of segments and let the Wixey figure out the compound angle for the saw.<br />
<b>Here's how it works:</b><br />
1.Take the angle off an old segment as I do here or calculate it from a table.<br />
there are numerous on the net and some in Excel if you prefer.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/BirdHousesAndFeeders/photo#5077519339874279714"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/boboswin/Rnb48BFh4SI/AAAAAAAAAFg/bHhBB2prtEw/s492/roof%20angle%201.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
2. Set the Wixey on the saw table and zero it out.<br />
<br />
<br />
3. Using a steel miter gauge set the Wixey on it a measure the angle difference vs the table and the gauge.<br />
Transfer the Wixey to your saw blade and set in the same angle you got from the bevel gauge.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/BirdHousesAndFeeders/photo#5077519339874279762"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/image/boboswin/Rnb48BFh4VI/AAAAAAAAAF4/3tP9iehi6kw/s492/roof%20angle%204.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The diameter of your roof will vary with the stock you choose but the angle of slope will remain the same.<br />
<br />
4. Saw up 4 pieces and set them with masking tape against a flat board and check your fit.<br />
Adjust if necessary.<br />
If they are a fit, cut the other 4 pieces and get ready to glue them.<br />
You pretty much should use polyurethane glue ( Elmers or Gorilla for example) to get a weather proof seal as Most of the joints are end grain and will be sitting in moisture alot.<br />
Wear gloves with this Stuff, it stains your hands.<br />
Use it sparingly and spray the glued surface with water to hasten the cure.<br />
I apply the glue on one surface and wet the mating surface.<br />
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/BirdHousesAndFeeders/photo#5077520228932510050"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/image/boboswin/Rnb5vxFh4WI/AAAAAAAAAGI/cunHH_QK2SA/s492/feeder-roof1.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
to be continued...</g>obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-35395537105301144312011-01-16T14:50:00.000-08:002011-01-28T12:58:26.835-08:00Thin strip table saw gaugeI needed a jig to allow me to cut consistent thin strips away from the fence and the potential for binding and possbly nicking the fence. I have the Grr ripper but sometimes need a strip too narrow for this jig.(1/4" minimum)<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/59U5Hd0wisadUB2mzmzq0g?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TPwkV74NFpI/AAAAAAAAHhE/3adLXmlH478/s400/thin-strip-gauge-4.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/THINSSTRIPTSJIG?feat=embedwebsite">THIN STRIP TS JIG</a></td></tr>
</table><br />
I saw this in ShopNotes or similar and never got around to making it.<br />
It's really simple and only needs a routed slot and a bolt to carry a small bearing on the nose. I picked up the miter slot fittings from <a href="http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/product_info.php?cPath=264_559_652&products_id=2947">Workshop Supply</a> here in Canada. <br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vZKyf-KPJ7DIXRGCgiyuPg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TPwkW0UnvXI/AAAAAAAAHhI/F2-BP3ko7gE/s400/thin-strip-gauge-5.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/THINSSTRIPTSJIG?feat=embedwebsite">THINS STRIP TS JIG</a></td></tr>
</table><br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-yBlc3tYwrG74bYHKcjxrg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TPwkUZiie4I/AAAAAAAAHhA/T-By05JsdtE/s400/thinstrip-gauge-3.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/THINSSTRIPTSJIG?feat=embedwebsite">THINS STRIP TS JIG</a></td></tr>
</table>You can fine tune this with measuring bars and cut strip after strip just by moving the fence in to the bearing surface.<br />
<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yt1TBVnLcQfF44cqLGZA2A?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/TPwkTrVwVPI/AAAAAAAAHg8/WOQ_vWED99w/s400/thinstrips-gauge-2.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/THINSSTRIPTSJIG?feat=embedwebsite">THINS STRIP TS JIG</a></td></tr>
</table>If you use the Grr-ripper you can set it way back and set the Gripper up ahead of it to carry the cut through the blade.<br />
<br />
Bobobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-44141628938679611272011-01-13T15:16:00.001-08:002011-01-13T15:19:02.662-08:00Working punky wood in a maple burl<a href="http://www.members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/Burlcuttingtechnique/">These pics tell the whole story</a>.<br />
The fellow that trims my trees around home dropped off this huge burl about 2 years ago. <br />
This is about 1/4 of it so far. <br />
<br />
I just keep running out of time . <br />
<br />
Time is not my friend.<br />
<br />
Bobobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-74236815489263696452011-01-13T15:11:00.000-08:002011-01-13T15:11:23.081-08:00<div style="MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFCPnISYyI/AAAAAAAAALY/bE86prh9lss/s1600-h/rotosip-bushing-jig.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFCPnISYyI/AAAAAAAAALY/bE86prh9lss/s320/rotosip-bushing-jig.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><br />
<div style="MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFCPnISYzI/AAAAAAAAALg/WSOeotgVyFQ/s1600-h/bow-tie-f.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFCPnISYzI/AAAAAAAAALg/WSOeotgVyFQ/s320/bow-tie-f.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><br />
<div style="MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFCP3ISY0I/AAAAAAAAALo/HmGYk85afl4/s1600-h/bowtie-template.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFCP3ISY0I/AAAAAAAAALo/HmGYk85afl4/s320/bowtie-template.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><br />
<div style="MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFCQHISY1I/AAAAAAAAALw/7_O9dca4ZR0/s1600-h/bushing-base-rotozip.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_IzydxQp22lI/RpFCQHISY1I/AAAAAAAAALw/7_O9dca4ZR0/s320/bushing-base-rotozip.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div style='clear:both; text-align:CENTER'><a href='http://picasa.google.com/blogger/' target='ext'><img src='http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif' alt='Posted by Picasa' style='border: 0px none ; padding: 0px; background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 50%; -moz-background-clip: initial; -moz-background-origin: initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: initial;' align='middle' border='0' /></a></div>obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-90878624522265787062011-01-12T08:57:00.001-08:002011-01-13T13:34:25.155-08:00MAKE a birdhouse from a log and some fence boardHere's a "<a href="http://members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/birdhouse%20project/Birchlogbirdhouse/">project</a>" for a rainy day.<br />
<br />
http://members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/birdhouse%20project/Birchlogbirdhouse/<br />
<a href="http://members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/birdhouse%20project/Birchlogbirdhouse/ "></a> <br />
Bob<br />
<br />
Here's a "project":http://members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/birdhouse%20project/Birchlogbirdhouse for a rainy dayobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-68668328073752398972011-01-04T10:11:00.000-08:002011-01-04T10:11:02.568-08:00"These pics tell the whole story":<a href="http://www.members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/Burlcuttingtechnique/">http://www.members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/Burlcuttingtechnique/<br />
</a><br />
The fellow that trims my trees around home dropped off this huge burl about 2 years ago. <br />
This is about 1/4 of it so far. <br />
<br />
I just keep running out of time . <br />
<br />
Time is not my friend right now.<br />
<br />
Bobobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-3395792932766641582011-01-04T10:08:00.000-08:002013-02-16T07:35:50.289-08:00Bandsaw log sled and resaw fence for any bandsawI cant take credit for this design but after chasing around the internet for a while I landed on this simple solution.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V1kiGjbMJ1I/UR7NCf4uesI/AAAAAAAAID0/Q9aAhKL6cmE/s1600/BS-SLED2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V1kiGjbMJ1I/UR7NCf4uesI/AAAAAAAAID0/Q9aAhKL6cmE/s640/BS-SLED2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2651727200101907180tZEdRm"></a><br />
I believe Mike in Paradise Newfoundland may be the originator.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wr27Ay174AM/UR7NODtDoRI/AAAAAAAAID8/mxtEJ7wNoxU/s1600/BS-SLED1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wr27Ay174AM/UR7NODtDoRI/AAAAAAAAID8/mxtEJ7wNoxU/s640/BS-SLED1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2846043370101907180pUnclX"></a><br />
It's just a cradle with a parallel "keel" to fit into the bandsaw miter slot.<br />
It uses a 1/2" pipe clamp as the log gripper.<br />
*One caveat:* the logs are heavy and can tilt the BS table. I will be cutting a support stick for under the table shortly to prevent this.<br />
I will also be drilling some additional holes to reposition the bar clamp in the cradle ends as the need arises.<br />
To set the depth of cut I just set my fence to the correct width and slip the first end of the log up to it then pass the entire log past the blade and set the back end.<br />
p.s. I should have used my 3/4" resaw blade but forgot to change it in my haste to make shop time more valuable<br />
<br />
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2191958430101907180PRNrKS"></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GcEev7XtaXU/UR7NpVaVWvI/AAAAAAAAIEE/s0y4FoPKElQ/s1600/BS-SLED4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GcEev7XtaXU/UR7NpVaVWvI/AAAAAAAAIEE/s0y4FoPKElQ/s320/BS-SLED4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Well it didn't take long to find out that I needed an out feed table/slider on these logs. They are quite heavy and difficult to handle by yourself so I rigged up this slider that rests on top of my outfeed table for the table saw.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fI7v7hKgZyg/UR7NyHGdN-I/AAAAAAAAIEM/zGS9YJ2jZ6E/s1600/bs-sled5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fI7v7hKgZyg/UR7NyHGdN-I/AAAAAAAAIEM/zGS9YJ2jZ6E/s320/bs-sled5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2131395560101907180Pintub"></a><br />
Here's a different shot of it in case you want to copy me .<br />
The frame is notched to fit the miter slot on my bandsaw table and I attached it using a spring clamp for now.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaXAja3CPl4/UR7N6QYRk8I/AAAAAAAAIEU/WqOz0X1w-Gs/s1600/bs-sled6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaXAja3CPl4/UR7N6QYRk8I/AAAAAAAAIEU/WqOz0X1w-Gs/s320/bs-sled6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2180502700101907180SgtsRR"></a><br />
The actual sled lines up with it and slides into a trough to keep it lined up when it exits the blade.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1823xzxNwuE/UR7OBG4udfI/AAAAAAAAIEc/se8gAWo8JR4/s1600/bs-sled7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1823xzxNwuE/UR7OBG4udfI/AAAAAAAAIEc/se8gAWo8JR4/s320/bs-sled7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2375730770101907180tsoUXh"></a><br />
Here's shot of the rig packed up for storage I wanted the outfeed to nest in the sled to save space and it does .<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kY3kzjIsTVE/UR7OH2-lBhI/AAAAAAAAIEk/VIsQeGwmZFw/s1600/bs-sled92.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kY3kzjIsTVE/UR7OH2-lBhI/AAAAAAAAIEk/VIsQeGwmZFw/s320/bs-sled92.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2730522610101907180uNHQRS"></a><br />
I still have to modify the bar clamp and stabilize the bandsaw table for the additional weight but the hard stuff is done now.<br />
Here's the modification to the bar clamp with one of two screws in the steel plate dangling down in front of the adjustable end of the bar clamp. I am trying to prevent rotation of the log during movement.<br />
p.s. the screws are ground to a dull point<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PLwh_gfQBOw/UR7OQwLIiZI/AAAAAAAAIEs/wnQo_iwN6QE/s1600/bs-sled10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PLwh_gfQBOw/UR7OQwLIiZI/AAAAAAAAIEs/wnQo_iwN6QE/s320/bs-sled10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2629400500101907180RKqHDh"></a><br />
I also added an led light to the setup today using a flexible book light and a couple of magnets in a block of wood. I have to remember to turn it off though. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRk9_TOxRlU/UR7OYnsB8KI/AAAAAAAAIE0/q3eEvcxDd00/s1600/bs-light2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRk9_TOxRlU/UR7OYnsB8KI/AAAAAAAAIE0/q3eEvcxDd00/s320/bs-light2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2859718630101907180MzQbZe"></a><br />
Heres a shot of the light in place on the saw. <br />
They are really inexpensive now and this one came with 5 extra batteries.(All for a buck!)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-foyJYKeRP7I/UR7Ofp5CnaI/AAAAAAAAIE8/VQm4BbW_R64/s1600/bs-light2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-foyJYKeRP7I/UR7Ofp5CnaI/AAAAAAAAIE8/VQm4BbW_R64/s320/bs-light2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2873430180101907180suUMsk"></a><br />
Now we are going to need a* resaw fence* for the slabbed lumber and the exotic stuff from the lumber vendors.<br />
I just used scraps of this and that to build a box over the bandsaw fence to extend the height .<br />
This should prevent cutting "wedgies".<br />
Here's a shot from the back side showing how it sits over the fence. <br />
On Saturday I will get some slotted nuts to secure it when I'm slicing.<br />
I deliberately used MDF for the face of the fence as I have found it more stable than other solutions.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2277048690101907180sKbZpj"></a><br />
Here you can see a test piece sliced into three. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3uw9KWNalH0/UR7LeF5fPUI/AAAAAAAAIDc/YACAbLNa0iw/s1600/resaw-fence-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3uw9KWNalH0/UR7LeF5fPUI/AAAAAAAAIDc/YACAbLNa0iw/s320/resaw-fence-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I ran the piece through the saw a couple of times to give myself a flat bottom to run past the blade and slipped it through with a push stick at the end.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-olYF_ZnL89U/UR7LsK6trgI/AAAAAAAAIDk/qtbujSRZWpo/s1600/resaw-fence2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-olYF_ZnL89U/UR7LsK6trgI/AAAAAAAAIDk/qtbujSRZWpo/s320/resaw-fence2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2857658990101907180eGkRfA"></a><br />
The last shot shows the three pieces flat on the table.<br />
The light I rigged up yesterday is comming in quite handy.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-neYpe4NMP6Y/UR7L0fpMF8I/AAAAAAAAIDs/2tDhjHRdOw8/s1600/resaw-fence3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-neYpe4NMP6Y/UR7L0fpMF8I/AAAAAAAAIDs/2tDhjHRdOw8/s320/resaw-fence3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2555600620101907180AZyWdi"></a><br />obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-3834346577267064682011-01-04T10:04:00.001-08:002011-01-04T10:04:49.915-08:00a simple plane for a site level.This is such a simple project I hate to bother you with it but I thought it might be the kind of project that may stay in your family.<br />
I spent about 10-12 dollars on parts and the rest took about a 1/2 hour in the shop.<br />
If you have a WW buddy it could get you some brownie points around x-mas or Ramadan or YK or whatever.<br />
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Cheers Bob<br />
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/MyWoodfolder/photo#5110916605613023858"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/boboswin/Ru2fkvI1onI/AAAAAAAAAWc/QTrTBpMmF6w/s800/level.jpg" /></a>obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-14761147864889061692011-01-04T09:59:00.000-08:002011-01-04T10:02:30.845-08:00What? another birdhouse?<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/G51bjP793FgVAQfR7W3pOQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/R0Wv4QLouXI/AAAAAAAAAhM/LllEgKF09zc/s800/bhflower.jpg" height="296" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/TeachingKids?feat=embedwebsite">teaching kids</a></td></tr></table>Can't say too much here but it <a href="http://members.shaw.ca/boboswin/birdhouse.html">a little project</a> I did with my grandson to get him interested in woodworking.<br />
Click on the red text above to follow us on this one.obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-70994325363192766472011-01-04T09:46:00.000-08:002011-01-04T09:46:12.998-08:00Birdhouse from a log with the help of a wood latheHere's a simple way to <a href="http://members.shaw.ca/boboswin/public/Birchlogbirdhouse/">build a birdhouse </a>from a bit of firewood and some fence board scraps.<br />
Just click on the red writing for a pictorial.obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4200643835051395954.post-76453274871632656162011-01-04T09:42:00.001-08:002011-01-04T09:42:27.359-08:00An oval hand mirrorI have been wanting to try one of these for a while now and got the first pattern off the paper in into wood today.<br />
First thing to do is determine how much border you want to encircle the mirror and then cut and accurate pattern of the actual glass to serve as a template for your router inlay kit.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/enYFLbBiG4ua7eeCXMGtMw?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/SXO9gY4u60I/AAAAAAAAEVA/cUBlHffP-ag/s800/mirror-outline-1.jpg" /></a></TD></tr><tr><TD style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:PX; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/MirrorOval?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite">mirror oval</a></TD></tr></table><br />
I sticky back taped the mirror to bandsaw a piece of 1/4"MDF and trimmed it to the shape with a bearing guided router bit.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-sD9_-TCVmeiZeaQqbvQ1Q?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/SXO9g_dDb2I/AAAAAAAAEVI/iI22toEat2c/s800/mirror-oval-template.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/MirrorOval?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite">mirror oval</a></td></tr></table><br />
Next step was to refine the mirror back template so the oval would line up with the axis of the handle.<br />
Once the recess for the mirror was routed the body could be cut out on the bandsaw and refined<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4bze5AuW-kXD0ll524lmeg?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/SXO9hifWEYI/AAAAAAAAEVY/QIkNHLw094w/s800/morror-3-bs-cut.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/MirrorOval?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite">mirror oval</a></td></tr></table>The thickness sander brought us to the right thickness and refined the surfaces.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/D_vr3ey_r0dII1Dmbf1edw?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/SXO9ifATIOI/AAAAAAAAEVg/nDyHGQYme2w/s800/mirror-4-sander.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/MirrorOval?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite">mirror oval</a></td></tr></table> A light skip around the router table witha round over bit and we are starting to see daylight.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/h6jgyYW1PUc2jif_4VfAkg?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/SXO9ijF_mhI/AAAAAAAAEVo/gixPR2svqCk/s800/mirror-5--roundover.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/MirrorOval?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite">mirror oval</a></td></tr></table>The mirror seems a good fit and the bezel looks relatively even round it.<br />
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qltv_ZX1GxsLzeXqxs1M8Q?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/SXO9jTCNe2I/AAAAAAAAEVw/u4dohvjRk9Q/s800/mirror-6-front.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/MirrorOval?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite">mirror oval</a></td></tr></table>here's the back with the mirror out on the side.<br />
I am contemplating an inlay for the back to kind of dress it up a bit.<br />
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<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LsJBBHSUR3ugVBsHcOScfQ?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_IzydxQp22lI/SXO9kGh2u1I/AAAAAAAAEV4/5zCecMcItbU/s800/mirror-7-back.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/boboswin/MirrorOval?authkey=M9QkLE3XGXc&feat=embedwebsite">mirror oval</a></td></tr></table>... to be continued.obhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08623245594097536982noreply@blogger.com0